
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Flight to the Summit of Mount McKinley
We took off with nine passengers, and Pilot Dave, right on schedule and immediately began the ascent. The first 15 minutes we flew through a heavy cloudbank that was just a white wall. The Pilot (along with “co-pilot Pat”) flew purely by instruments. Due to the altitude we all had to don oxygen masks and wear them throughout the flight. We were also wearing headsets, which kept us “tuned in” to Dave’s narration, each other and also Air Traffic Control instructions.
At approximately 10,500 feet we ascended out of the clouds and there, immediately before us, was the incredible sight of Mount McKinley. For the next hour we flew circles around the mountain, eventually climbing above the summit of 20,320 feet. We flew within a mile of the surface and were treated to views of both the north and south peaks, the sheer rock faces, the “hanging glaciers”, Wickersham’s Wall, Pioneer Ridge, McKinley Pass and several glaciers replete with moraines, which are long dark stream-like deposits of rock and debris pushed up by the tremendous pressure of the ice. The pilot would fly in both directions and repeatedly dipped the wings so everyone was treated to an up-close and unobstructed view of Denali in all her majesty.
We also checked out the mountaineer base camps at both 14,000 and 17,000 feet and followed several climbers attempting one of the final ascents of the year. Due to mountain conditions, McKinley can only be climbed in April, May and June. For the last couple days the climbers have been stuck in their camps due to unfavorable conditions. Today was their first clear day and, as you’ll see in the attached photos, more than a dozen people are still on the mountain trying to get to the summit. From where we viewed the climbers, at base Camp 14, they still had more than 6,000 feet to ascend. Less than 50% of all people who attempt the climb are successful and, this late in the season, from what we were told, it will be extremely difficult to make it all the way to the summit of the North Peak. It also goes without saying that this is an extremely treacherous endeavor. This year alone, two climbers have perished and another experienced a free-fall of more than 2,000 feet and had to be airlifted off the mountain. It was a tad frightening to see how daunting the mountain was and how tiny the climbers were.
It is absolutely impossible to come up with words that sufficiently describe the sheer beauty and majesty of Mount McKinley. It is truly an awe-inspiring sight. Attached are several photos that we hope will show you the extraordinary panorama that unfolded before us.
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Enjoy and “stay-tuned”. Tomorrow we’re taking a Jet Boat tour up the Talkeetna, Chulitna, and Susitna rivers.
Take care,P&J
Friday, June 27, 2008
Mt. McKinley or Denali (as the Athabaskans call it) is AWESOME !!!
The mountain is not visible very often (most estimates hover around 30% of the time) BUT we have now seen it on THREE different occasions! How lucky is that? For the first 4 days we were here "The High One" was totally enshrouded in clouds. It is so tall, 20,320 feet, that it actually creates it's own weather. Often it is socked in with clouds when the rest of the area is sunny and bright.
On Tuesday, Judy had a hunch at about 11:00pm that Denali, the mountain, just might be visible. Sure enough, after driving the 16 miles to the first vantage point, there it was in all its glory. Attached are several pictures from different times and different locales. Notice the two shots at sunset and then at sunrise - just a little more than 3 hours later.
We also went on a Jeep Safari where WE actually drove the Jeeps through the backcountry. Well, Pat and Freddie drove, Judy and Sally were the, sometimes willing, passengers ;) Notice the one picture taken from Freddie's Jeep forward toward Pat's which is going through a "puddle". Don't miss the "Safety First" decal on the dash; does that include going through water that's halfway up the doors? It was a blast. Pat must have done fairly well because the Jeep Safari company offered her a job IMMEDIATELY. Perhaps next year...
Yesterday we took a Monster Truck tour and traversed the only other road into Denali. This is the "unofficial" route into the Park that has to be accessed via a private railroad crossing. We went through forests, across streams, forded rivers, traveled to the tundra and ended in an alpine meadow. We saw caribou, moose, eagle, trumpeter swans and much more. It was incredible to spend 7 hours, surrounded by such vast wilderness and NEVER encounter another human being.
Today is our last day here in Denali and tomorrow, Saturday, we head to Talkeetna where, if the weather cooperates, we will take a flightseeing tour around Mt McKinley. On Sunday we're taking a jet boat tour up three different rivers where, hopefully, we will again see the mountain.
Stay tuned, more to come...
Today's pictures: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0Sbs27hoxZMKW¬ag=1
Take care,
P&J
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Denali - a TRUE wilderness within "The Last Frontier"
On Sunday we took a 12 hour bus tour to Kantishna at the end of the park road. There is only one road that goes the 90 miles into Denali and to the base of Mt McKinley. No private vehicles are allowed past the first 16 miles, so one must take a park bus. It was an incredible trip with LOTS of wildlife and park history. The bus had a naturalist and a park ranger and we received a lot of interesting information. There was an abundant amount of wildlife - bears, moose, caribou, eagles, wolves, fox and much more. We have included several pictures within this Blog as we're having difficulty getting a sufficient Internet connection to publish photos to ShutterFly. Perhaps we'll be able to catch up with some additional pics in the future.
We have done several hikes, gone to the Denali NPS Dog Sled Kennels and viewed them in "action", attended some interesting Park Ranger presentations and taken a couple wildlife drives. In the next couple days we're going to take a Jeep safari into the Park where WE actually drive the jeeps and also go on a Monster 4X4 Truck that goes deep into the backcountry. Lot's of fun coming up.
We'll keep you posted; we enjoy hearing from you,
Stay safe,
P&J
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Traveling Deep Into The Alaskan Interior...
In addition to flying to Barrow last Sunday, we:
- went to Creamer's Field Migratory Refuge and saw geese, sandhill cranes, iridescent tree swallows, etc.
- went to the Museum of the North at the University of Alaska, Fairbanks. It was one of the very best museums we have ever been to. We spent most of the day and could have spent longer.
- went to North Pole, Alaska and saw Santa and Mrs Claus, the elves, his reindeer and managed to do some shopping!
- went to Pioneer Park where there are several restored buildings and exhibits that depict historical Alaska.
- went to the Tanana Valley Farmer's Market. There is a lot of organic and, at this time of year, greenhouse-grown produce here in Alaska, however, we could not quite get ourselves to buy a $5.00 bag of lettuce that contained about a dozen leaves!
- went on the Riverboat Discovery with several stops including the kennels of the late Susan Butcher and an Athabaskan village.
Susan Butcher was a dog musher who rose to fame when she became the second woman to win the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race in 1986, and went on to become the second four-time winner in 1990, and the first to win four out of five sequential years. The Iditarod is a grueling 1,131-mile race through arctic blizzard conditions across the Alaska wilderness, which tests the endurance of both mushers and dogs over the course of one to two weeks. Susan lost a courageous battle with cancer in 2006 but her legacy lives on in her Trail Breaker Kennels which are owned and operated by her husband and two daughters.
The Athabaskans traditionally lived in Interior Alaska, an expansive region that begins south of the Brooks Mountain Range and continues down to the Kenai Peninsula. In traditional and contemporary practices Athabaskans are taught respect for all living things. The most important part of Athabaskan subsistence living is sharing. All hunters are part of a kin-based network in which they are expected to follow traditional customs for sharing in the community. It has been very rewarding to learn about these peoples.
I bet you're wondering how we are seeing and doing so much. Well, it's because we never sleep. Just kidding, but it IS a challenge. You see, today, June 21st is the Summer Solstice - the LONGEST day of the year. No, it's still only 24 hours in length but it is the longest daylight of the year. Here in Denali, where we currently are, the sun rose at 2:17AM this morning and will set at 12:58AM tonight. That's 22 hours and 41 minutes of daylight; and the remaining 1 hour and 19 minutes is dusk. It has not really gotten dark for almost a month now!! So, there is LOTS of time to do things. Right now it is 10:16pm and the sun is still coming in the window.
Tonight the 103rd Midnight Sun Baseball Classic is being played in Fairbanks. Yep, the first pitch is not thrown until 12:00 midnight when the Alaska Goldpanners, the home team, will be hosting the California Running Birds (?) for the game which is played in its entirety without any artificial lights. We'll keep you posted on the results :))
Attached is the link to some pictures. Below the photo it explains what it is. Enjoy...
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Tomorrow morning we are setting out on a 12-13 hour tour deep into Denali National Park to the base of Mount McKinley. We will be going as far as the road goes and we anticipate seeing MUCH wildlife and some spectacular scenery.
More soon. Take care and stay safe,
P&J
Monday, June 16, 2008
All the Way to the ARCTIC OCEAN and MORE
In Delta Junction we had our first glimpse of the 800+ mile long Alaska Pipeline. We have included three pictures of the Pipeline, the first was taken in Delta Junction where it crosses the Tanana River on it's own suspension bridge; the second is an aerial view taken on our flight to Prudhoe Bay; and the third is taken at a viewpoint north of Fairbanks where you can actually "touch" the 4-foot in diameter Pipeline. We'll include more info on the Pipeline the end of July when we head to Valdez, the termination of it's path.
While in Delta Junction we visited a couple Roadhouses, drove the Agricultural Loop and attended a local Farmer's Market.
On Thursday we drove 97 miles and arrived in Fairbanks where we are spending a week. We have visited Pioneer Park, gone to another local Farmer's Market and taken a trip to North Pole, Alaska. While there we made sure that the "Big Guy" (AKA "Santa") knew that we were being good ;))
On Sunday we took an Alaska Air flight from Fairbanks, via Prudhoe Bay (the origination point of the Alaska Pipeline, on the North Slope) and on to Barrow, Alaska.
Barrow is the northernmost settlement on the North American mainland. The population of 4,500+ is comprised of primarily Inupiat who rely heavily on hunting and fishing, including whaling for their subsistence. The capture of a whale benefits each member of the community, as the animal is butchered and its meat and blubber allocated according to a traditional formula. Even city-dwelling relatives thousands of miles away are entitled to a share of each whale killed by the hunters of their ancestral village. Climactic changes, causing thin ice, erosion, and flooding, have affected their livelihood in recent years. Even though they are "allowed" 22 whales a year, this past year they only captured 9 as the ice melt occurred early and drove them from their hunting grounds.
In recent years the exploitation of oil and other resources has, fortunately, been an alternative and important revenue source for the Inupiat.
We toured the villages and went to Nuuvik, the northernmost Point Barrow land mass. As the photos show it is a COLD and desolate place where survival is certainly a test of man's fortitude. The Inupiat's, however, are a sturdy and proud lot. We were treated to a show at the Heritage Center which included traditional dancing, singing, demonstrations and the blanket (or more correctly whale-skin) toss. We also went in search of a Polar Bear that had been spotted earlier in the day on an ice floe near town but he alluded us. It was a fascinating day and one that certainly provided insight into a culture very different from our own.
During our remaining time in Fairbanks we will be taking a Riverboat ride, going on a Gold Train Tour, visiting a gold dredge, hiking around the Migratory Bird Refuge and spending time at the University of Alaska Museum of the North and Musk Ox Research Center.
SO. Lot's more to do here before we drive on to Denali on Friday. Keep "Posted" as we continue our travels.
Here's the link for some photos from Delta Junction, Barrow and Fairbanks;
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Take care,
P&J
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
YEA - We're REALLY HERE...
We have driven on great roads and we have driven on dirt and gravel that wasn't even a roadway yet. We have driven through beautiful warm sunshine and we have driven through strong winds, tornado warnings, sleet, hail and even snow, but NOW the true adventure begins and getting here has all been worth it.
Tonight we are staying in Tok, Alaska. We all went to Fast Eddie's and had a celebratory dinner and a toast to our accomplishment. This is the culmination of a dream that started several years ago and now we are finally here. It was VERY exciting to come across that border and realize how very far we have come. There are really no two places in this great country of ours that are more diametrically opposed than Florida and Alaska. By just looking at a map it is mind boggling to fathom the distance. And now we set out to explore what is truly the "Last Frontier". The sheer beauty thus far has been awesome and it promises to only get better.
Tonight we also attended a free mini-concert here at the campground. It was a local Tok singer named Dave who really helped in setting the stage for the adventures that lie ahead. He spoke eloquently of the state of mind here in Alaska and all the beauty and grandeur that surrounds us. He sang several original tunes that dealt with living in the 49th state and understanding it's unique place in this land of ours. We found him to be most enjoyable and just the right introduction on our first evening here.
Tomorrow it is off to Delta Junction and then after a couple days of rest we head into Fairbanks.
Here is a link to a couple more pictures from the border.
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Take care, stay safe and come back to this link soon to see our adventure unfold,
P&J
Monday, June 9, 2008
WOW! What a Difference 24 Hours Can Make!
Sunday morning, shortly after we awoke, it started to snow and, as you'll see from the attached photos, it came down pretty well for most of the morning. When Alice went to Mass, the Priest commented that this was the FIRST time he could ever remember it snowing in Whitehorse in June. How lucky are we ? It cleared up later in the day and we got caught up on a few errands and had a nice Sunday Supper. In the evening we went to the Frantic Follies, a vaudeville-type review that centers on the Gold Rush days of the 1890s. It was funny and entertaining.
The next morning, Monday the 9th, we left early and set out to drive to Destruction Bay, YT. We had already heard that it was going to be a difficult drive as the roadway had many frost-heaves and construction areas. Little did we know how "difficult" it really was going to be! Before we got out of town it started snowing AGAIN and this time in more earnest! Note the second picture above.
Most of the day was serious snow and even more serious construction. It was an 8 hour day of driving to cover less than 270 miles! We continued past our planned campground at Destruction Bay (because it was not yet fully functional from the harsh winter) and also because we wanted to get as far as we could. We anticipated more of the same construction delays the next day on the way to Tok, AK, and had NO idea what the weather might be! We spent Monday night in Beaver Creek, YT; very tired and stressed from a tough day, but also very excited at the prospect of getting to Alaska the next day.
By the way, frost-heaves are a result of the harsh winter (40-60 degrees BELOW zero) on the roadway. The permafrost thaws and the asphalt develops a series of humps and dips that, in the spring and summer, have to be repaired. There were numerous construction areas and the road was unbelievably dusty. The RV and the car became encased in a cement-like gravel dirt. It was so BAD that after we arrived at the campground we washed the vehicles for three (3) hours and never really removed more than the TOP layer!
Attached are some interesting photos of the two days in Whitehorse and the drive to Beaver Creek. There is a shot of Miles Canyon, some "snow shots" and a picture of Tow-Be before we washed her. Yes, there really is a Honda-CRV underneath all that gunk!
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Next Posting, we leave the Yukon Territory and FINALLY enter Alaska.
Take care and stay safe,
P&J
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Flagler Beach Shall "Live" in Perpetuity !!!!
While in Watson Lake we also attended the Northern Lights Interpretive Center and viewed a great planetarium presentation on the Universe and the Aurora Borealis.
On Saturday we left Watson Lake and stopped at Rancheria Falls on our way to Whitehorse. We got to the falls via a short hike through a boreal forest. EVERYTHING is just beautiful here.
Attached is a link to a couple pictures of The Sign Post Forest and Rancheria Falls.
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We're a couple days behind on these Posts so check back often as we will be adding Whitehorse (Sunday & Monday) AND our entry into Alaska (on Tuesday) very soon.
Take care and stay safe,
P&J
Thursday, June 5, 2008
What a FANTASTIC beginning on the Alaska Highway
We have spent two days here at Muncho Lake which is an incredible teal blue color due to mineral deposits. The picture at the top of this page is from our campsite and YES that is the REAL color. The lake is surrounded by towering snow-covered mountains. We also went to Smith Falls, a beautiful waterfall, secluded and off the beaten track. We heard about it from the Post Mistress in Dawson Creek, who said it was one of the “best-kept secrets along the ALCAN”. From there we went to Liard Springs, had a picnic lunch, and then walked to the Hot Pools. There are two, Alpha and Beta, and they bubble out of the earth at more than 110 degrees. The first stays hotter because it is not as deep as Beta, which is more than 9 feet in depth. It was VERY luxuriating to just bask in the warm, mineral waters. The air temperature was in the 50s so it was quite tolerable. We spoke to a gent who comes to the Springs in the winter when the outside temp is 30 degrees BELOW zero! Can you imagine? It must be a major shock to your body. We found it wonderfully refreshing and it really eased the aches and stiffness from road fatigue.
Tomorrow we continue north on the highway approximately 180 miles to Watson Lake. That’s where the Signpost City is located. More on that in the next Post…
Below is the link to some more pictures. They include a photo taken at one of our many “construction stops”. We frequently have to wait for tar and gravel to be laid as they are patching the roadway EVERYWHERE. There are a couple pictures taken out the front windshield intended to give you a peek at the beautiful views we have every day. Also, there are a few shots of some of the four-legged friends (and also a two-legged one) that we have “met” along the way. The huskies were part of a truckload of 12 that were moving from Michigan to Alaska to live near the trail for the Iditarod. Seeing wildlife along side the road is becoming more and more of a common occurrence. Travel is slow, which is OKAY by us, because one never knows what will be encountered around the next curve.
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Hope you are enjoying the Posts and the pictures.
Take care and stay safe,
P&J
Monday, June 2, 2008
3800 Miles and We FINALLY Arrived at Milepost 0 (zero)!!!!
The Alaska Highway, or ALCAN as it is also known, was constructed in 1942 as an overland supply route, for defense purposes, during World War II. It was built by the US Army in just a little more than 8 months and covers more than 1400 miles. Can you imagine? It took Florida DOT almost two years to build a new bridge on I-95 at Flagler Beach!!!
The scenery continues to be awe-inspiring. Today we shared the road with moose and drove in the foothills of the snow-covered Canadian Rockies. There will be many opportunities for snow, glacier and iceberg photos over the next few months so I'm refraining from posting them here.
Tomorrow it is off to Ft Nelson, BC and then to Muncho Lake where we will spend a couple down days. Among our planned activities will be basking in the Liard Hot Springs which have a 110 degree temperature and therapeutic minerals. Pat's aching body is ready. Even though we try to drive for 2-3 days and then have 2 days down, off-road, it does still get taxing. The bulk of the long-distance driving is over now, we have finally gotten here, so it will not be as arduous from this point on.
Here are a couple pictures from Chetwynd, the Chainsaw Sculpture Capital of the World and also here in Dawson Creek. Chetwynd has more than 50 sculptures displayed throughout town and some of them are really phenomenal considering they have been done ENTIRELY with a chainsaw.
The picture at the top of the BLOG is our "little band of adventurers". Freddie & Sally are in the Northern Star with their cats, Tony & Smokey; Alice is in the Allegro Bay with her cat Sophie and we are in the DutchStar with no pets - Pat is more than enough!!!
Click on the link and enjoy the photos:
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Take care, stay safe and love to you all,
P&J
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Tomorrow, Monday, June 2nd is a BIG Day
Tomorrow we travel approximately 260 miles (otherwise known as 418 kilometers) to Dawson Creek. This is milepost 0 (zero) of the Alaska Highway, which actually begins here in Canada. This truly is where the adventure begins!
We will travel the ALCAN to it's terminus in Delta Junction, Alaska (approximately 1400 miles) with many side trips along the way. At that point we will continue on to Fairbanks and an airplane flight to Barrow, AK, far above the Arctic Circle. Eventually we will start south and the return trip will be a combination of driving, to points like Denali, Anchorage, Homer, Valdez, Kenai, Seward, etc.) and sailing on the Alaska Marine Highway, which is the series of ferry boats that will take us south through the Inside Passage.
As you can see, we have a VERY ambitious, yet EXCITING summer ahead of us.
Please travel along with us via this blog. We will try to update as often as possible, just understand that sometimes the availability of Internet is problematic.
We love to see your comments here and also to receive your emails. Currently, while we are in Canada, we are without cell service, as roaming charges are quite prohibitive. After arriving in Alaska on June 11th we will hopefully have cell phone availability some times.
We miss you all and you are certainly in our thoughts.
Stay safe and take care,
P&J