It has been another week of INCREDIBLY BEAUTIFUL scenery. On Monday we arrived in Jasper National Park, our first stop in the Canadian Rockies. This land of craggy mountain peaks, lush valleys and mirror-smooth, glacial lakes provides a photographer’s dream. Maligne, Medicine Patricia, Edith, Annette and Pyramid Lakes, Maligne Canyon and Athabasca and Sunwapta Falls are all indicative of nature’s unbelievable beauty. Our visit to the Miette Hot Springs was both invigorating as well as relaxing. They are the hottest mineral springs (104 degrees) in the Canadian Rockies and to bask in the therapeutic pools while viewing the incredible landscape and wildlife is truly an unforgettable experience.
These parks are home to wildlife as diverse as their peaks and valleys. Fall is when the elk (or wapiti) are in rutting season and the loud bugling of these immense creatures is unmistakable and frequently heard.
After Jasper we traveled on the Icefields Parkway, which is undeniably one of the most beautiful highways in the world. National Geographic calls it “One of the World’s Ten Greatest Drives” and, believe us, it more than lives up to its reputation. To travel the Icefields Parkway is to be immersed in a vast wilderness of magnificent peaks, ancient glaciers, diverse wildlife, waterfalls, pristine mountain lakes and broad sweeping valleys. The road passes within viewing distance of seven icefields, comprising the largest concentration of glacial ice below the Arctic Circle, the centerpiece being the Columbia Icefield. This stunning geographical feature is a high alpine basin of accumulated snow that straddles the Great Divide. At Mount Snow Dome one encounters a TRIPLE Continental Divide, which is scientifically unique. It is at this hydroponic apex where water flows into THREE different directions across the continent to ultimately empty into THREE different oceans (The Atlantic, The Pacific and The Arctic!). It was near Mount Snow Dome, at the Athabasca Glacier, a tongue of the Columbia Icefield, that we had one of the most phenomenal experiences of our entire trip. We know, we have said that MANY times over the last five months but this REALLY was fantastic. From the toe of the Athabasca Glacier we drove ON THE ICE in a giant, six-wheeled, specially designed Ice Explorer almost all the way to the wall of the icefield. We then disembarked and experienced an awe-inspiring glimpse of icy-crevasses and miles of desolate glacial expanse. The temperature was ZERO degrees Celsius and the wind was VERY blustery. To see and walk on this glaciated ice field formed by snow that fell as long as 400 years ago provided a true Ice-Age opportunity.
The Icefields Parkway led us to Banff National Park where we have spent the last few days. Once again, the majestic beauty is inescapable. The mountains and the forces of nature inspire awe and command respect. We viewed Lake Louise, an icy blue-green lake fed by the springs from Victoria Glacier. It quite possibly may look familiar in our pictures as it is frequently seen in movies, on TV and in print. This and many of the lakes in this region have a phenomenal opaque turquoise color due to the silt and rock flour that is carried from the glacial meltwater. They are indescribably beautiful. In addition to Lake Louise we went to Lake Minnewanka, Bow Lake, Two Jack Lake, Peyto Lake and Moraine Lake within the Valley of the Ten Peaks.
From Banff we went to Yoho National Park where we saw Takakkaw Falls, one of the highest waterfalls in Canada, Emerald Lake, Natural Bridge on the Kicking Horse River and the Spiral Tunnels of Kicking Horse Pass. These tunnels are a railway-engineering marvel that enables a train to descend a very steep grade by traveling in circles inside the mountain. At one point we actually viewed the same train on three different levels as it passed over and under itself.
As you can see, it has been another FANTASTIC week. Tomorrow we leave the Canadian Rockies and head east toward Calgary, Alberta. Within a couple days we’ll be back in the States but there are still more things to see and do.
Here is the link to view some pictures from this past week. Again, there is NO WAY that the camera is able to capture the awesome beauty and majesty of all that we are seeing.
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0Sbs27hoxZMWi
Take care and stay safe,
P&J
Friday, September 26, 2008
Saturday, September 20, 2008
We’ve Bade a Sad Farewell to Alaska But We’re Now Traveling Through Beautiful British Columbia.
Last Sunday we landed at Prince Rupert, British Columbia, the end of our four-week travels down the Inside Passage as well as the termination of our stay in Alaska. The trip on the Alaska Marine Highway ferry system afforded a great opportunity to visit several stops that are accessible only by air or water. While it is certainly sad to know that our Alaska trip is over, we are content in knowing that we have truly experienced a trip of a lifetime AND there is always the possibility of returning to this awesome land.
Now we are in British Columbia and this week have traveled from Prince Rupert to Kitwanga, Stewart, Hyder, and we’re currently in Smithers.
Prince Rupert, known as the “Gateway to Alaska”, is one of Canada’s major seaports, the terminus of the Canadian National (Grand Trunk Pacific) Railway, the Alaska Marine Highway System and the BC Ferry System. For more than 5000 years before the coming of the railroad, the area has been home to the Tsimpsean and Haida cultures that are renowned for their stylized artworks, the most familiar of which are totem poles. We enjoyed our stay in Prince Rupert and while in the campground we had a pleasant visit from some Sitka black-tail deer that you’ll see in a photo on our link.
Kitwanga (previously know as Gitwangak) is a Native reserve home to some of the finest authentic totem poles in the area. As our photos attempt to show, the totems are extremely intricate with very defined carvings. St Paul’s Anglican Church is also in Kitwanga with a very unique bell tower. Next we went to Gitanyow (formerly Kitwancool), a small Indian village that has one of the highest concentrations of standing totems in northwestern British Columbia. Once again, the intricate detail of these carvings is phenomenal.
After Kitwanga we went north on the Cassiar Highway to Stewart and Hyder, which are at the head of the Portland Canal, a narrow 90-mile saltwater fjord that forms a natural boundary between Canada and the United States. Hyder is actually in Alaska; so for a few hours we left British Columbia and traveled in the 49th state again. In route we saw bears alongside the road and viewed the Bear Glacier. We also went to Fish Creek and watched a grizzly chase down its dinner. After bear watching we drove 20+ miles up a very narrow, windy, mining road to view Salmon Glacier. It was an interesting perspective of the glaciations because we were actually several hundred feet ABOVE the actual surface. Thus, it truly resembled a “River of Ice” meandering for miles down from the icefield to the lake. As our pictures show, the glacier is immense (several miles wide and thousands of feet thick. The dark lines that are visible are know as moraines and are actually huge deposits of giant rocks and debris that are being carried along by the “flow” of the glacier. It Was VERY impressive.
Currently we are in Smithers, BC, known as the “Little Switzerland” of BC with its alpine-themed storefronts and building murals. There is even an alpenhorn player statue, as you’ll see in our pics. It is situated amidst rugged mountains and is home to a popular ski resort. This area lies within the Bulkley Valley, which is home to several large cattle farms and many vegetable gardens. Saturday morning we went to the local Farmer’s Market and REALLY enjoyed being able to get some fresh fruits, vegetables, eggs and baked goods. If there is one thing that we’ve really missed this summer, it has been fresh produce.
Here is the link to some pictures from this past week:
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0Sbs27hoxZMWA
From here we drive to Prince George, BC and then head toward Alberta, the Canadian Rockies and several days in Jasper, Lake Louise, Banff and the incredible Icefields Parkway.
Stay tuned and stay safe,
P&J
Now we are in British Columbia and this week have traveled from Prince Rupert to Kitwanga, Stewart, Hyder, and we’re currently in Smithers.
Prince Rupert, known as the “Gateway to Alaska”, is one of Canada’s major seaports, the terminus of the Canadian National (Grand Trunk Pacific) Railway, the Alaska Marine Highway System and the BC Ferry System. For more than 5000 years before the coming of the railroad, the area has been home to the Tsimpsean and Haida cultures that are renowned for their stylized artworks, the most familiar of which are totem poles. We enjoyed our stay in Prince Rupert and while in the campground we had a pleasant visit from some Sitka black-tail deer that you’ll see in a photo on our link.
Kitwanga (previously know as Gitwangak) is a Native reserve home to some of the finest authentic totem poles in the area. As our photos attempt to show, the totems are extremely intricate with very defined carvings. St Paul’s Anglican Church is also in Kitwanga with a very unique bell tower. Next we went to Gitanyow (formerly Kitwancool), a small Indian village that has one of the highest concentrations of standing totems in northwestern British Columbia. Once again, the intricate detail of these carvings is phenomenal.
After Kitwanga we went north on the Cassiar Highway to Stewart and Hyder, which are at the head of the Portland Canal, a narrow 90-mile saltwater fjord that forms a natural boundary between Canada and the United States. Hyder is actually in Alaska; so for a few hours we left British Columbia and traveled in the 49th state again. In route we saw bears alongside the road and viewed the Bear Glacier. We also went to Fish Creek and watched a grizzly chase down its dinner. After bear watching we drove 20+ miles up a very narrow, windy, mining road to view Salmon Glacier. It was an interesting perspective of the glaciations because we were actually several hundred feet ABOVE the actual surface. Thus, it truly resembled a “River of Ice” meandering for miles down from the icefield to the lake. As our pictures show, the glacier is immense (several miles wide and thousands of feet thick. The dark lines that are visible are know as moraines and are actually huge deposits of giant rocks and debris that are being carried along by the “flow” of the glacier. It Was VERY impressive.
Currently we are in Smithers, BC, known as the “Little Switzerland” of BC with its alpine-themed storefronts and building murals. There is even an alpenhorn player statue, as you’ll see in our pics. It is situated amidst rugged mountains and is home to a popular ski resort. This area lies within the Bulkley Valley, which is home to several large cattle farms and many vegetable gardens. Saturday morning we went to the local Farmer’s Market and REALLY enjoyed being able to get some fresh fruits, vegetables, eggs and baked goods. If there is one thing that we’ve really missed this summer, it has been fresh produce.
Here is the link to some pictures from this past week:
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0Sbs27hoxZMWA
From here we drive to Prince George, BC and then head toward Alberta, the Canadian Rockies and several days in Jasper, Lake Louise, Banff and the incredible Icefields Parkway.
Stay tuned and stay safe,
P&J
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Petersburg, Wrangell & Ketchikan – “Little Norway”, The Mighty Stikine River & Misty Fjord
This blog covers our last three stops along the Alaska Marine Highway. First “port”, Petersburg, on Mitkoff Island, is a picturesque little town also referred to by the Alaskans as “Little Norway” for its beautiful fjord-like setting and neat, white Scandinavian-style homes and storefronts. This idyllic place is nestled within the Tongass National Forest, which also encompasses Wrangell and Ketchikan. The Tongass is the largest national forest at just over 17 MILLION acres!
The big cruise ships do not put in at Petersburg, or Wrangell, because of their narrow harbors; thus, they are unspoiled by the throngs of tourists and seasonal gift shops. In Petersburg, as we walked along Sing Lee Alley, Nordic Drive and across Hammer Slough, we had an opportunity to enjoy the picturesque, and sometimes quirky, nature of this beautiful little town. The wooden streets with their beautiful, family-owned stores and homes are built on wooden pilings and slats and still serve utilitarian purposes, making them far more appealing than if they were prettied up as tourist areas. It is more insular and authentic, so instead you see Norwegian fishermen in pickup trucks and blond-haired kids on bikes.
While in Petersburg we camped next to Louie and John, two elderly gents from Oregon, who have been spending every summer here for the last 15 years or so. They left, heading South, on the same ferry as we did, but on our last evening they gave us a beautiful, 10-lb silver salmon that they caught just hours before. We slapped it on the grill and WOW, was it delicious. Speaking of the ferry, we embarked at 1:00am and since we were only traveling one stop we had to board last. AND, we had to BACK down the ramp and onto the ship. Did we mention that the ramp is the LONGEST on the entire ferry system (more than 100 yards), it has TWO turns in it, we also had to back around inside the ship AND it was DARK? Pat now feels fairly qualified to back up just about any where. Truth be known: the guys that direct you while they load the vehicles are really good and without them Pat really couldn’t back up at all!!
Next stop, Wrangell, valued for its position near the mouth of the Stikine River, which drains all the way from British Columbia to the sea. It is one of the most famous fishing rivers in the Pacific Northwest and, like many of the towns in the region, it owes its existence to the rich cultural influence of the Tlinget and Haida Indians and the expansive Russian fur empire of the 18th and 19th centuries. Wrangell also was instrumental in the three Alaskan gold rushes, but after that, time pretty much stopped. While the world outside changed, Wrangell has pretty much stayed the same from the mid-20th century on. It’s predominately a logging and fishing town with many people also involved in the administration of Tongass National Forest.
Wrangell is home to Chief Shakes Island, a tiny islet in the middle of the small-boat harbor, which is the site of a Tlinget clan house and a nice collection of totems. The beach north of town has an impressive set of petroglyphs. Most believe that these 50 stone carvings, scattered across the rocks, represent the work of forgotten indigenous people, pre-dating the Tlingets, and perhaps made over a period of time more than 10,000 years ago. The images, chipped into rocks, are of animals and geometric forms. Their purpose is lost to time. We found great pleasure in searching for the carvings – they’re just scattered all over – and to wonder at their meaning and age.
Our last stop within Alaska was Ketchikan whose economy is based on salmon fishing, logging and tourism. It began as a Tlinget salmon fishing camp “Kitsch-Hin” or “The Creek of the Thundering Wings of an Eagle”. It subsequently became the center of an immense number of salmon canneries and, as such, evolved into a rather wild waterfront town. Remnants of those days still are evident in Creek Alley, which was the red-light district and Dolly’s House, a fine bordello turned museum. Ketchikan, and nearby Saxman, are home to two excellent Totem Parks with associated Community Houses.
Our biggest treat while in Ketchikan, was to take a float plane trip to Misty Fjords National Monument. These 2.3 million acres are at the southern end of Tongass National Forest and offer an incredible journey into an absolutely awesome area. The name Misty Fjords powerfully evokes the place – perpetually misty and characterized by a multitude of deep fjords. We were fortunate to have a beautiful day in which to experience this phenomenal place. Imagine flying over thundering waterfalls that drop hundreds of feet from sheer rock cliffs, while mountains rise vertically from the cold salt water to the snowfields. Everywhere the northern rain forest vegetation is lush and green. Our UNBELIEVABLE visit to this INCREDIBLE place was on a flight piloted by Michelle Masden, owner and operator of Island Wings. Her passion, knowledge and sincere commitment to her passengers made this one of the most unforgettable experiences of our entire summer. There is no way that our humble photographs can show the shear beauty and majesty of Misty Fjords. The picture at the top of this blog was taken at one of the lakes where we landed and believe us when we say that it was truly breath-taking.
The big cruise ships do not put in at Petersburg, or Wrangell, because of their narrow harbors; thus, they are unspoiled by the throngs of tourists and seasonal gift shops. In Petersburg, as we walked along Sing Lee Alley, Nordic Drive and across Hammer Slough, we had an opportunity to enjoy the picturesque, and sometimes quirky, nature of this beautiful little town. The wooden streets with their beautiful, family-owned stores and homes are built on wooden pilings and slats and still serve utilitarian purposes, making them far more appealing than if they were prettied up as tourist areas. It is more insular and authentic, so instead you see Norwegian fishermen in pickup trucks and blond-haired kids on bikes.
While in Petersburg we camped next to Louie and John, two elderly gents from Oregon, who have been spending every summer here for the last 15 years or so. They left, heading South, on the same ferry as we did, but on our last evening they gave us a beautiful, 10-lb silver salmon that they caught just hours before. We slapped it on the grill and WOW, was it delicious. Speaking of the ferry, we embarked at 1:00am and since we were only traveling one stop we had to board last. AND, we had to BACK down the ramp and onto the ship. Did we mention that the ramp is the LONGEST on the entire ferry system (more than 100 yards), it has TWO turns in it, we also had to back around inside the ship AND it was DARK? Pat now feels fairly qualified to back up just about any where. Truth be known: the guys that direct you while they load the vehicles are really good and without them Pat really couldn’t back up at all!!
Next stop, Wrangell, valued for its position near the mouth of the Stikine River, which drains all the way from British Columbia to the sea. It is one of the most famous fishing rivers in the Pacific Northwest and, like many of the towns in the region, it owes its existence to the rich cultural influence of the Tlinget and Haida Indians and the expansive Russian fur empire of the 18th and 19th centuries. Wrangell also was instrumental in the three Alaskan gold rushes, but after that, time pretty much stopped. While the world outside changed, Wrangell has pretty much stayed the same from the mid-20th century on. It’s predominately a logging and fishing town with many people also involved in the administration of Tongass National Forest.
Wrangell is home to Chief Shakes Island, a tiny islet in the middle of the small-boat harbor, which is the site of a Tlinget clan house and a nice collection of totems. The beach north of town has an impressive set of petroglyphs. Most believe that these 50 stone carvings, scattered across the rocks, represent the work of forgotten indigenous people, pre-dating the Tlingets, and perhaps made over a period of time more than 10,000 years ago. The images, chipped into rocks, are of animals and geometric forms. Their purpose is lost to time. We found great pleasure in searching for the carvings – they’re just scattered all over – and to wonder at their meaning and age.
Our last stop within Alaska was Ketchikan whose economy is based on salmon fishing, logging and tourism. It began as a Tlinget salmon fishing camp “Kitsch-Hin” or “The Creek of the Thundering Wings of an Eagle”. It subsequently became the center of an immense number of salmon canneries and, as such, evolved into a rather wild waterfront town. Remnants of those days still are evident in Creek Alley, which was the red-light district and Dolly’s House, a fine bordello turned museum. Ketchikan, and nearby Saxman, are home to two excellent Totem Parks with associated Community Houses.
Our biggest treat while in Ketchikan, was to take a float plane trip to Misty Fjords National Monument. These 2.3 million acres are at the southern end of Tongass National Forest and offer an incredible journey into an absolutely awesome area. The name Misty Fjords powerfully evokes the place – perpetually misty and characterized by a multitude of deep fjords. We were fortunate to have a beautiful day in which to experience this phenomenal place. Imagine flying over thundering waterfalls that drop hundreds of feet from sheer rock cliffs, while mountains rise vertically from the cold salt water to the snowfields. Everywhere the northern rain forest vegetation is lush and green. Our UNBELIEVABLE visit to this INCREDIBLE place was on a flight piloted by Michelle Masden, owner and operator of Island Wings. Her passion, knowledge and sincere commitment to her passengers made this one of the most unforgettable experiences of our entire summer. There is no way that our humble photographs can show the shear beauty and majesty of Misty Fjords. The picture at the top of this blog was taken at one of the lakes where we landed and believe us when we say that it was truly breath-taking.
Hopefully the pictures on this link will give you a small idea of all the exciting things we have seen and done:
share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0Sbs27hoxZMVM
As you can tell, we have had ANOTHER incredible two weeks. Today we board the ferry and sail south, leaving Alaska and arriving in British Columbia. Our trip is far from over; there are still bears to be seen in Stewart-Hyder; the majesty of Jasper, Banff, and Lake Louise; stops in Montana and South Dakota; and visits in Iowa again. So, don’t leave us yet, there’s still another 4-6 weeks to go. BUT, we must admit, as we sail from Ketchikan there will be some pensive thoughts. It has truly been a trip of a lifetime this summer as we have experienced just a small part of what this Last Great Frontier has to offer.
Take care, stay safe, and soon,
P&J
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Sitka, Rich in Tlinget and Russian Heritage
We arrived in Sitka on August 30th and spent four days in this beautiful and culturally rich town. Tlinget Indians inhabited these islands, and developed practical ways of survival and subsistence, centuries before the Russians attempted to settle the Alaskan panhandle. The Tlingets enjoyed a bountiful existence with a rich cultural life. Sociable people, they gathered for all kinds of occasions, including weddings, births and deaths, and they danced before setting out on fishing and trading expeditions. In 1799 the Russians arrived at “Shee Atika” (Sitka) and found the Tlinget survival skills and their access to a bountiful fur supply were valuable. The relations between the Russian-American Company and the Tlinget Kiks.adi clan went from bad to worse. The Kiks.adi soon realized that submission to the Russians meant providing free labor to the company and allegiance to the Tsar. In 1802 hostile submission turned to violence. Again in 1804 hostilities developed and the result was the withdrawal of all Tlingets from the area. The Russians lost no time in building a fortified town on the very spot where “Shee Atika” had stood. Sitka became the “Paris of the Pacific” and prospered for more than 85 years. However, over-hunting diminished the fur trade and by 1867 the Tsar decided to sell Russian America to the United States for 7.2 million dollars. Sitka was the site of the official Transfer and remained the capital of the Territory of Alaska until it was moved to Juneau in the midst of the gold flourish.
Among the places we visited were:
· Totem Park, a tranquil setting along the Indian River with a two-mile path that winds through a peaceful rainforest. Contrary to a common misconception, totems were never used as items of worship, but rather were erected to record a clan’s history, or herald a historic or significant event or even to ‘ridicule’ someone who had wronged the clan. The totems stand tall and majestic along a pathway that winds through massive spruce and hemlock where misty rain often floats down from an unseen sky somewhere above the trees. Attached are pictures of some of the more than 25 totem poles that we viewed.
· The Russian Bishop’s House, which was built in 1843, and was the home of Bishop Innocent Veniaminov, who translated scriptures into Tlinget and other native languages. He also trained his Deacons to carry Russian Orthodoxy back to their Native villages, which was a key element to saving native cultures.
· Sheldon Jackson Museum, home to a vast collection of artifacts representative of all Native tribes indigenous to Alaska.
· St Michael’s Cathedral, the first Orthodox Cathedral in the New World.
· Alaska Raptor Center, which takes in injured birds of prey, rehabilitates them and grooms them for re-entry into their natural habitat. Before release, the birds are put into their “flight-training center” where they learn to fly again. The Raptor Center features four convalescent mews, two vertical flight mews to test and condition for lift, and a clinical aerobic flight tube in which birds demonstrate their stamina and maneuverability before release into the wild. Watching these giant birds fly from such a close distance is awesome.
· Castle Hill, Pioneer’s Home and Sheldon Jackson Hatchery.
Sitka’s history is among Alaska’s richest, its beauty is unparalleled and we had a truly enjoyable time there. Now it’s on to Petersburg, the Little Norway of Alaska.
Here are some pictures for your enjoyment:
share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0Sbs27hoxZMUI
Take care and stay safe,
P&J
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