Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Sitka, Rich in Tlinget and Russian Heritage


We arrived in Sitka on August 30th and spent four days in this beautiful and culturally rich town. Tlinget Indians inhabited these islands, and developed practical ways of survival and subsistence, centuries before the Russians attempted to settle the Alaskan panhandle. The Tlingets enjoyed a bountiful existence with a rich cultural life. Sociable people, they gathered for all kinds of occasions, including weddings, births and deaths, and they danced before setting out on fishing and trading expeditions. In 1799 the Russians arrived at “Shee Atika” (Sitka) and found the Tlinget survival skills and their access to a bountiful fur supply were valuable. The relations between the Russian-American Company and the Tlinget Kiks.adi clan went from bad to worse. The Kiks.adi soon realized that submission to the Russians meant providing free labor to the company and allegiance to the Tsar. In 1802 hostile submission turned to violence. Again in 1804 hostilities developed and the result was the withdrawal of all Tlingets from the area. The Russians lost no time in building a fortified town on the very spot where “Shee Atika” had stood. Sitka became the “Paris of the Pacific” and prospered for more than 85 years. However, over-hunting diminished the fur trade and by 1867 the Tsar decided to sell Russian America to the United States for 7.2 million dollars. Sitka was the site of the official Transfer and remained the capital of the Territory of Alaska until it was moved to Juneau in the midst of the gold flourish.

Among the places we visited were:
· Totem Park, a tranquil setting along the Indian River with a two-mile path that winds through a peaceful rainforest. Contrary to a common misconception, totems were never used as items of worship, but rather were erected to record a clan’s history, or herald a historic or significant event or even to ‘ridicule’ someone who had wronged the clan. The totems stand tall and majestic along a pathway that winds through massive spruce and hemlock where misty rain often floats down from an unseen sky somewhere above the trees. Attached are pictures of some of the more than 25 totem poles that we viewed.
· The Russian Bishop’s House, which was built in 1843, and was the home of Bishop Innocent Veniaminov, who translated scriptures into Tlinget and other native languages. He also trained his Deacons to carry Russian Orthodoxy back to their Native villages, which was a key element to saving native cultures.
· Sheldon Jackson Museum, home to a vast collection of artifacts representative of all Native tribes indigenous to Alaska.
· St Michael’s Cathedral, the first Orthodox Cathedral in the New World.
· Alaska Raptor Center, which takes in injured birds of prey, rehabilitates them and grooms them for re-entry into their natural habitat. Before release, the birds are put into their “flight-training center” where they learn to fly again. The Raptor Center features four convalescent mews, two vertical flight mews to test and condition for lift, and a clinical aerobic flight tube in which birds demonstrate their stamina and maneuverability before release into the wild. Watching these giant birds fly from such a close distance is awesome.
· Castle Hill, Pioneer’s Home and Sheldon Jackson Hatchery.

Sitka’s history is among Alaska’s richest, its beauty is unparalleled and we had a truly enjoyable time there. Now it’s on to Petersburg, the Little Norway of Alaska.

Here are some pictures for your enjoyment:

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Take care and stay safe,

P&J

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